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Magic
1.
What is the best way to care for the latex doves?
What would you recommend for taking care of the latex in cleaning
and preserving it for longevity?
2.
Can you give any advice on how to care for the
Nielsen Vanishing Bottles? What is the best way to clean the bottles
- smudges, fingerprints, etc.?
3.
Can you tell me exactly how best to use fanning
powder? When I've tried it in the past, it seems to actually make
the cards stick together rather than making them slicker.
4.
Do you have any general card manipulation advice?
I have the McBride tapes and Ganson's "Routined Manipulations"
series. I thought there might be other books I've overlooked.
Posters
1.
Tell me more about poster sizes. What
is a ½-sheet, 1-sheet, 3-sheet and 8-sheet, poster?
2.
When you say that a poster is “mounted”
what do you mean?
3.
I am interested in one of the Carter
8-sheet posters that you offer. What should I expect to pay to
have it mounted on linen?
4.
Is mounting an 8-sheet poster the best option?
5.
Once an 8-sheet poster is mounted,
what is the best method for displaying the piece? Frame only?
Glass covered?
6.
How do you ship an 8-sheet poster?
7.
How do I choose a right mounter?
8.
Can you give me any advice on framing
the posters?
9.
I am looking to purchase the Green Stripe Alexander
poster. Can you tell me more about the quality of the reproduction?
How is it printed? Another company sells the same poster for $14.95.
What is the difference in your reproduction that demands such
a difference in price? Please explain.
Other
topics
No
subjects at this time.
Magic
- FAQ's
1
– What is the best way to care for the latex doves? What
would you recommend for taking care of the latex in cleaning and
preserving it for longevity?
First
of all, latex is an interesting material. The advantage is that,
when it is fresh, it springs immediately back into shape and
it is very supple. The disadvantage of latex is that it decomposes
with time.
The
decomposition is due to its contact with air and light. The
are some special chemicals that can be sprayed to the item during
manufacturing to further protect it, unfortunately these give
the item a certain "shine" that we do not want our
doves to have. You can notice this on masks, rubber chickens,
etc. But regardless of this, the end result is the same: Latex
does not last forever.
If
not used, a Nielsen Latex Dove might have a shelf life of a
few years before it becomes brittle. I have had a dove out that
was made in a batch from three years ago, and it is still fine.
If you use your Dove often, the best way to store it is by putting
it in a zip lock bag to seal it from the air. Once in a while
you might want to wash it and put some talcum powder on it,
but the main thing is to put it in the zip lock bag. This slows
down the oxidation process and it will last for a longer time.
That
is the main reason why we use vinyl for the Vanishing Bottles
- although vinyl is not as supple, it does last a lifetime.
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2
- Can you give any advice on how to care for the Nielsen Vanishing
Bottles? What is the best way to clean the bottles - smudges,
fingerprints, etc.?
As
you know, the bottles are made of vinyl. The best way to clean
the bottle is by using a mild solvent like Ronsonol lighter
fluid. Lighter fluid will clean all the sticky residue without
damaging the bottle. You can then stick the labels on the bottle
and after the new labels are on, you clean the bottle with any
vinyl cleaner like Armor All.
Due to the "sticky problem" with the adhesive on the
labels, we have decided to make new labels for several bottles.
The new labels are now printed on static cling material. In
other words, it just sticks to the bottle without adhesive!
If after you finish the trick the label gets wrinkled, all you
have to do is peel it and stick it back. We have tried these
in a few conventions, and so far, the same set of labels has
lasted on our demo bottle for three of them. These seem to last
longer and be much cleaner. They are still at $2 per set.
The
bottles that are offered with static cling labels are: Ketchup,
Budweiser and Miller Lite. As far as the rest of the bottles
are concerned, as we run out of stock on the old labels, we
will reprint them in this material. Also, when using the static
cling labels, the important thing is to keep the bottle clean.
Armor All will do that.
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3.
Can you tell me exactly how best to use fanning powder? When I've
tried it in the past, it seems to actually make the cards stick
together rather than making them slicker.
Fanning
powder is simply zinc stearate. The best way to apply it to
your cards is by taking a large plastic bag and putting your
cards in it, along with 1 teaspoon of the powder. Blow the bag
up with air so that it becomes like a bubble with the cards
and powder inside it. Then, shake it for a minute or so. Remove
the cards from the bag, and they are ready to be used.
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4.
Do you have any general card manipulation advice? I have the McBride
tapes and Ganson's "Routined Manipulations" series.
I thought there might be other books I've overlooked.
The
Jeff McBride videos are a remarkable card manipulation resource,
simply because he has gathered the best moves from all the literature.
Except for the Ganson books, and a few articles and pamphlets,
there is not much on card manipulation.
The
secret is practice, practice, PRACTICE. Pick a move or two that
have a magical value and that you can use within a magical routine.
Master those moves by practicing them several hours per day.
Once you learn them, learn two more, and so on.
Try
to practice intelligently. Determine what your goal is, and
practice the moves that would take you closer to that goal.
Do not waste your time practicing flourishes that you will never
use or you are just learning to show off (unless of course you
have all the time in the world and don't mind learning them).
For instance, I always work standing up without a table. When
I read a magic book, I skip all the tricks that involve me working
infront of a table and concentrate on those that I can do in
a stand up situation.
It is the same with manipulation. If you do stage magic, skip
all the close-up flourishes. If you do close-up magic, then
skip all the items that you can not use in that venue, etc.
If at first you practice what you need, you will have all the
elements necessary to complete an act or routine.
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Posters
- FAQ's
1.
Tell me more about poster sizes. What is a ½-sheet, 1-sheet,
3-sheet and 8-sheet, poster?
This
is the nomenclature used to describe vintage posters here in
the United States.
A
½ sheet poster measures approximately 20” x 30”.
A one-sheet poster measures approximately 30" x 40".
A three-sheet poster measures approximately 40” x 80”
An eight-sheet poster measures approximately 7 ft. x 9 ft.
Please
keep in mind that these sizes are approximate. These sizes can
vary by a few inches more or less on the width or length. These
were also the sizes of most American posters. European posters
can be slightly larger.
The
one-sheet size (30” x 40”) was the standard size
of the limestone that they used when printing these images.
When talking about 2-sheets, 3-sheets or 8-sheets, one would
assume that they consist of 2, 3, or 8 sheets put together.
There are some cases where this is not the rule. Some 8-sheets
are composed of 5 large segments, for instance. However, the
entire image has the approximate final dimensions of 7 ft x
9 ft.
A
16-sheet poster measures approximately 12 - 16 ft x 9 ft.
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2.
When you say that a poster is “mounted” what do you
mean?
The
standard way posters are mounted in the United States is by
dry or wet mounting. If you ever mount posters, please DO NOT
use any dry or heat mounting with them. This process uses and
adhesive and a heat press that permanently glues the poster
to a foam board, cardboard or masonite. This method is NOT the
recommended method when mounting vintage posters.
Stone-lithographs
were mostly printed (there are exceptions, of course) prior
to 1930. These were printed for advertising purposes and these
posters were glued to walls on the streets of every town and
city a performer worked. Because they were not meant to last,
they were printed in very cheap, acidic paper. Because of the
acid on the paper, the poster will decompose with time. In order
to prevent (or delay this) posters should be mounted on Japanese
rice paper. This non-acidic paper helps stabilize the poster.This
is the most common method of mounting - particularly in England.
However, in the US and France poster mounters go one step further:
the mount the entire poster and rice paper on linen or canvas.
By mounting it on these materials the poster can now be rolled
and handled easily, without fear of tearing it. This type of
mounting is called "wet-mounting" and the glues use
to adhere the poster to the various layers of material are non-acidic
and water soluble. This method also allows for restoration of
a poster. If there missing parts on a poster, these can be "filled
in" by expert artists.
As
mentioned earlier, the rice paper helps stabilize the acid in
the poster. However, the linen or canvas gives it a backing
so that the poster can be easily handled without tearing it.
The French and the Americans use this method. The British, for
instance, only mount on rice paper without the canvas.
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3.
I am interested in one of the Carter 8-sheet posters that you
offer. What should I expect to pay to have it mounted on linen?
There
are several mounters out there. Through our experience we know
that a mounter will charge anywhere between $400 to $600 to
mount an 8-sheet. Some mounters charge by the square inch, others
charge by the “sheet”.
Please
also keep in mind that every large format poster (even if it
is in mint condition) requires a certain degree of restoration
work due to the folds on the paper. This is normal. In the case
of an 8-sheet, it takes probably 2 - 3 hours of restoration
time.
The
above quote is an approximation. You will have to talk to the
mounter to get an accurate figure.
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4.
Is mounting an 8-sheet poster the best option?
It
is always good to mount a vintage poster. The mounters use Japanese
paper under the poster to help stabilize the acid on the poster
paper, and then the poster is mounted on canvas for easy handling.
There
are mounters that can mount the poster, but they do not have
the capability of doing it in a continuous roll of canvas. Instead
they split the poster in two, and then join the two parts at
the splice. Although a little bit cheaper, we do not like this
because it devalues the poster and it is more difficult to sell
in the future.
As
another alternative, because the Carter posters are $450.-,
we have known of magicians that have bought them as cheap wall
paper. They just stick the poster to the wall with wall paper
paste, permanently. I suppose they didn't mind to spend that
money for the decoration. We of course wouldn't do this to the
poster!
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5.
Once an 8-sheet poster is mounted, what is the best method for
displaying the piece? Frame only? Glass covered?
The
best method of display depends on how much you want to spend
and your decor. And yes, due to their large size this can be
very tricky.
These
posters can be framed. However it is rather difficult because
of two reasons:
-- Moulding for framing does not regularly come in large sizes
(8 ft. is the standard)
-- Plexiglas has to be special ordered in very large sizes and
it is very expensive ($200 - $300 / sheet)
To solve the moulding problem, your framer would have to splice
it in order to add a foot or two to it. Plexiglas can be ordered
in your local industrial plastic store. Before the poster is
framed, make sure you measure the door to the room you want
to display it. Sometimes they don't fit, and the poster has
to be framed inside. Another
very nice way to display these types of posters is without a
frame. All you have to do is purchase 2 long dowels or 2 long
slats of wood. After the poster is mounted, the mounter will
give you enough "margin" around the poster for you
to attach a dowel across the top and bottom of the poster. Just
attach the top dowel to the wall and let the lower dowel serve
as a "weight" tostretch the poster down. This is similar
to the way some calendars are displayed.
Mounting
the poster protects it, and of course framing it would be good,
however, many times it is not practical. Hanging it in the above
mentioned fashion will allow you to display it nicely and give
you the enjoyment it was intended for.Finally,
the only thing you have to avoid on posters (or anything else)
is direct sunlight. As youknow, ultra-violet light fades everything.
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6.
How do you ship an 8-sheet poster?
The
unmounted 8-sheet poster comes folded in a flat package. When
opening it, be very careful, as the paper is very brittle.
A mounted poster is shipped in a large tube.
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7.
How do I choose a right mounter?
Deciding who the right mounter is for your posters depends on
the type and the condition of the piece. The first thing you
have to determine is: a) The value of the poster and b) Its
condition - does it need restoration?
If
the poster is in fairly good condition and does not need restoration,
but only straight mounting, then almost any company will do
an adequate job. However, you have to make sure that they do
not dry mount. You want wet mounting instead. The latter method
employs water soluble substances to mount the poster. It is
acid free and reversible. Dry or heat mounting is not recommended
as they used chemicals and the poster is glued permanently to
a board. We find that the most reasonably priced company is
Garo from WV or Phil Temple from CA.
If
your poster needs restoration then you have to decide what kind
of restoration work you want and what you are willing to pay
for it. Every mounter has their own particular techniques of
mounting and restoring posters. Some techniques involve painting
in the missing part of the poster with water soluble paints.
Other restorers use an airbrush to do this process. However
the most advanced technique is replacing the paper of the poster.
In other words, they will cover the holes or missing parts with
either paper or a substitute material and paint over it in such
a way that you wouldn't see that the poster was restored.
Of
course, the more sophisticated the restoration, the more expensive
it will be. Mounting and restoring a poster with paper restoration
can cost anywhere between $300 to over $1000.
So,
who do you send a poster to?
As
mentioned earlier, you have to determine its value. If it is
a poster that is only worth $200, for instance, then it is not
worth sending it to a restorer that is going to charge you $500
to mount it. If on the other hand your poster is worth $5000,
then, you probably want to send it to the best company. It is
just common sense.
For
straight mounting ONLY (no restoration) we recommend:
Phil
Temple
P.O. Box 561
Novato, CA 94948
Tel.: 415-897-5130
Very reasonable and fast.
For
mounting that requires some restoration (painting and/or airbrushing):
Funny Face
Productions
147 Main Street
Box 282
Haydenville, MA 01039-0282
http://www.funnyfaceproductions.com
J.
Fields Gallery. Inc.
The Kendrick Building
6139 Germantown Ave. Suite 310
Philadelphia, PA 19144
http://www.jfieldsgallery.com
Tel. 212-989-4520
Poster
Mountain
8749 Shirley Avenue
Unit B
Northridge, CA 91234
http://www.postermountain.com
Tel.: 818-882-1214
Fax: 818-882-1215
Sei
Petersen - The Poster Repair Co.
1810 Maryland Avenue
Baltimore, MD 21201
Tel.: 410-625-4917
Email: saylee@mindspring.com
We have not used this company, but Sei Petersen replaced Garo,
which we used quite often.
For
more complex projects that involve a lot of paper replacement
and restoration:
Studio
C
1040 Los Vallecitos Blvd.
Suite 109
San Marcos, CA 92069
http://www.atstudioc.com
Tel.: 800-583-8379
Poster
Restoration Studio
1101 S. Robertson Blvd.
Suite 201
Los Angeles, CA 90035
Tel.: 310-276-3491
They are the “top of the line” when it comes
to poster restoration. We send our very
high end
posters to them. However, they are expensive, but it is worth
it.
Customers
of ours also recommend:
Poster
Conservation, Inc.
200 Henry Street
Stamford, CT 06902
Tel.: 203-324-9750
We have not used them yet, but have received good feedback from
a couple of their customers.
For
obvious reasons, we will not quote prices. Call a few of these
mounters and send them each a poster or two and you can decide
for yourself who will ultimately fulfill your mounting needs.
Finally, please tell them that you heard about them through
Nielsen Magic! Those “brownie points” help!
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8.
Can you give me any advice on framing the posters?
When
framing the poster, please tell you framer not to glue the poster
to a backing, but to secure the poster to the backing with an
acid free tape.
The
worst thing that can damage paper (or anything for that matter)
is ultra violet light. If you are going to display posters in
a sunny area of your home, please tell your framer to use UV
Plexiglas. Plexiglas is lighter than glass and does not break
easily. This material will protect the posters from ultra-violet
light for 10 - 15 years. Ultra-violet rays of light are what
fade things.
If
you can, it is good to have the posters matted. The mat separates
the poster from the glass by 1/8 inch. Sometimes, matting is
not possible - when you are dealing with large format posters.
But if the poster is small enough, it is recommended.
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9.
I am looking to purchase the Green Stripe Alexander poster. Can
you tell me more about the quality of the reproduction? How is
it printed? Another company sells the same poster for $14.95.
What is the difference in your reproduction that demands such
a difference in price? Please explain.
Thank you very much for your inquiry. Unfortunately, we have
not seen the poster from the other company and are unable to
tell you anything about that particular print.
We
can tell you about the quality of our reproductions, though:
All
our poster reproductions are made DIRECTLY from the original
poster, and all the original posters are in our private collection.
These reproductions are not made out of a photograph that has
been blown up and reprinted, but are carefully scanned on a
1:1 proportional basis using a large format Contex scanner.
If you are familiar with these scanners (a $24K piece of equipment),
you will know that by scanning the poster in its full size you
keep every single detail of the piece.
The
poster is then printed on high quality canvas using UV inks
to protect it from fading. Our regular reproduction series (those
measuring 17.5" x proportional height) are signed and numbered
and will be limited in their production.
Finally,
we are able to reproduce a poster up to its full size if you
would like to. The full size of an Alexander Green Stripe is
approx. 40" wide x 80" high. When reproduced in this
size and framed, it is difficult to tell the difference between
the real and the reproduced one.
Recently,
there was an incident where we had sold a full size reproduction
of a Kellar poster to a customer. Unfortunately, two years later
this person passed away, and his poster collection went on auction.
Because 99% of his collection was composed of real posters,
no one had any reason to suspect that one of the Kellars he
had framed was a reproduction. A poster expert purchased the
poster at auction for over $4000. Luckily, we found out about
it, and called him on time warn him.
I
hope my spiel on our posters help you to make an educated decision
on your purchase.
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